SureFire Helmet Light on Ops-Core Helmet rail

I've received quite a few emails from visitors who read my writeup on the Wilcox NVG mount asking how I attached the SureFire helmet light to the side rail on the Ops-Core helmet. I used a TangoDown ballcap helmet light mount (which used to be sold separately but now comes on the EOTAC operator hat) and attached it to the Ops-Core Wing-Loc Adapter.

Idrilled an extra hole through the Wing-Loc adapter and used the two screws that came with the ballcap mount to attach them together. I also trimmed part of one 'wing' as clearance was needed between it and the mount (see pic below). No modification to the SF Helmet light was needed. The Helmet light or Wing-Loc mount can both be removed from the rail, or the mount left on it.

 

Modified Safariland 6004

5/24/06 - I've received quite a few emails inquiring about the holster in the first two photos below. It's just a standard Safariland 6004 for a Kimber Warrior/TLE/RL with Surefire X200 that I modified to single strap use. The only reason I wear a drop holster is to clear my vest as my torso's too short to have any clearance between a belt holster and the bottom of any vest I wear. I dislike having a drop holster sit all the way down on the thigh especially when running or moving around - the lower down they're mounted, the more flopping there is. I'm not the first to modify my 6004 this way, others have done it, and in fact I was inspired by my buddy Diz, after seeing pics of what he did to his. Trimming the thigh panel to convert the 6004 to single-strap use isn't absolutely necessary - you can remove the upper strap and just wear it higher. However, it's not as comfortable as having the corners trimmed, so that's what I did. I unscrewed the holster from the panel, and removed the thigh straps. I marked out where I wanted to trim the corners off, and drew lines with a marker. I used a small saw to cut away the plastic close to the line. I then used a dremel small sanding wheel to round off any sharp corners and edges, and to do the final shaping. Next, I used sand paper to smooth and blend all edges (starting out with 200 grit and going up to about 800). Since the holster now sat higher, I had to shorten the belt hanger strap. I figured out how much to trim off, cut it, and melted the cut edges with a lighter. I used a soldering iron to melt 3 new holes where the strap bolts to the thigh panel/holster. It's a great improvement (for me) on the original 2-strap configuration.

I also attached my Trident Knives TCFM02 to the leg panel, alongside the holster. It's a convenient place for the small fixed blade - very unobtrusive and easily drawn (once I figured out the grip) and sheathed. The TCFM02 kydex sheath has some holes in it, and I drilled a couple of matching holes in the 6004 thigh panel - one at the top hole on the sheath, another at the bottom (the elastic leg strap is just routed over the sheath - it doesn't hold it in place). I used a couple of chicago screws to secure it rigidly in place. In no way does it interfere with the draw of the pistol or operation of the holster.

 

 

What sling is in this pic?
5/16/06 - I haven't used a sling for a while now - I've been using the simple setup shown below for over a year and a half. I've tried single, 2 and 3 point slings, and while single point slings worked best for me at the range, they still got in the way sometimes. They'd never seem to sit right over my gear, end up against my neck, and get in the way of my mags sometimes. All I wanted was something that would take the place of a single point sling and attach to my gear. I experimented with a few home made variants using buckles and hand stitching, and finally settled on the one you see below, sewed up by Tim at Practical Tactical. A female SR buckle is sewn to a loop of webbing. The loop passes through a sling plate on the rear of my receiver and cinches up. Another length of webbing with a loop has a male SR buckle on it. This attaches to the rig on the weak shoulder/upper chest. The length is adjustable (the loose end hangs down, out of the way) and the weapon can easily be detached from the rig. Since it's attached to the weak shoulder, the weapon hangs on the weak side. It works in any position - strong or weak shoulder, prone etc. It's simple, and it works for me.

What's that?

	What hat is that? On the left, the grey on is a Mountain Hardwear Micro Dome fleece beanie I got a few years ago from REI. On the right, it's a Coyote Brown USMC fleece hat from Peckham Industries. I had pics of the Peckham USMC Coyote Brown fleece jacket, but Peckham asked me to remove the pics from my site - they were getting too many inquiries about it and didn't like dealing with individual orders.
	What's that rail/optic? Rail is KAC MRE, and optic is Trijicon TA01NSN with Optima red dot on top mounted in a Specwargear mount.
	What finish is on that Glock? It's Brownells Alumahyde II spray paint - OD green for the slide and Coyote for the frame. Nope, it's not very abrasion resistant - you can see kydex holster wear in the 2nd pic. But I'm not expecting it to be as durable as a professional finish, nor do I really care (which is why I painted it myself in the first place). The OD green is a very dark shade - it looks different in the first pic because it was taken under studio lights. The 2nd pic is under natural lighting. I used a soldering iron to add that "herringbone" texture to the grip. Works well. I've had this G19 since 1990 and wanted a change, and had a spare afternoon.